Turtle relaxation

Many people think Kusu Island is overrun by religious devotees on a daily basis, but that notion couldn’t be further from the truth. Yes, about a staggering 100,000 Buddhists, Taoists and Confucianists annually descend on the southern island during the Kusu Pilgrimage to pray at Tua Pek Kong Temple, but they only do so during the ninth lunar month, which usually falls somewhere between September and November. Outside these 30 days (which this year run from 11 October to 9 November), the idyllic island is virtually deserted, receiving only about a dozen or so visitors every weekday, while weekends usually see a handful of families, couples and teenagers attracted to its pristine beaches, breezy open areas and serene ocean views. 

Situated 5.6km south of the mainland, Kusu – which means tortoise in Hokkien – is just a 45-minute ferry ride from Marina South Pier. Legend has it that it was formed after a tortoise turned itself into an island to save two shipwrecked sailors. In reality, Kusu began life as two tiny outcrops on a 1.2-hectare reef before the authorities transformed it into an 8.5-hectare island in 1975. As the ferry approaches Kusu, you can scan the entire island in one glance – it’s that small. It can easily be covered by foot in under an hour, too, so pack a meal (as there are no restaurants on the island) and have a swim in the sheltered lagoons, or take a good book. 

The areas around the island’s two lagoons are good spots for picnicking or just chilling out, as there are many shady trees, beach shelters and picnic tables where you can plonk down. There are also lots of grass patches for the kids to run on, play football or fly a kite. (Do look out for the occasional grass snake, though, as we saw one slide by during our stroll along the grassy coastline.) There are no lifeguards on duty, so take care to swim within the lagoons’ rock-bund boundary. You’ll find an outdoor shower and public toilets near the neglected food centre, which is only utilised during the annual pilgrimage. 

If you like gazing at passing ships, opt for the lagoon facing south, which also offers breathtaking ocean views and cool breezes. The lagoon on the northern end has a big, sandy beach to walk on and a glimpse of Singapore’s southern coastline. A popular fishing spot on the island is at the bumboat jetty, located to the left of the main jetty, where a handful of fishing enthusiasts can always be found. Aside from a ferry, Kusu can also be reached by bumboats or water taxis, which usually take visitors to the other Southern Islands, such as Sisters’ Islands, a popular spot for diving and snorkelling. 

In Kusu, sightseeing is basically limited to three main attractions. The popular Tua Pek Kong (or Da Bo Gong) Temple was built in 1923 by rich businessman Chia Cheng Ho. This is where devotees flock every ninth lunar month to pray for prosperity, good health and fertility from the deities Tua Pek Kong (Merchant God or God of Prosperity) and Guan Yin (Goddess of Mercy). On other days, any devotee visiting Kusu will also make a beeline to the temple to make joss-stick offerings to the deities. The premises also have a huge turtle lagoon, a wishing well, a collection of bonsai plants and even some caged pythons. A small selection of canned drinks and snacks are also available for sale, if you run out of rations. 

To see the island’s other religious attraction, the Kusu Kramat, you have to climb 152 steps to the top of a rugged hillock. Here you’ll find three kramats (holy shrines of Malay saints) of pious man Syed Abdul Rahman, his mother Nenek Ghalib and sister Puteri Fatimah, who all lived in the nineteenth century. Muslims visit the shrines year-round; it’s said to be especially popular with childless couples that pray for children. Last, but not least, there is a tortoise sanctuary near the food centre, housing hundreds of tortoises. Nearby you’ll find marble sculptures of two giant tortoises, a popular spot for shutterbugs. 

When the pilgrims are at bay, Kusu offers a welcome respite from the city. If you arrive on a very quiet day, you can almost claim the island as your own little hideaway. The only snag is that overnight stays are not allowed, so don’t miss the last ferry, or you’ll have only the temple’s caretakers and tortoises for company. 

Kusu Island can be reached by ferry from Marina South Pier. Daily departure times: Mon-Sat 10am & 2pm; Sun & public holidays 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm. $15 (includes island admission); children (3-12 years) $12. For information, call 1800 SENTOSA (736 8672) or go to Sentosa's website.