If you visit only one World War II-related site, make it this one. The main story of Japan’s victory is punchily told, alongside displays on resistance hero Lim Bo Seng and Force 136, and on the local civilian experience during the Japanese occupation. The ‘Surrender Chambers’, containing exact waxwork replicas of the main players, are surprisingly effective at reconstructing the British surrender to the Japanese, and vice versa. But the main attraction is the sprawling structure of the fort itself. Wandering around the gun emplacements and underground complexes at your own pace gives a material sense of a place lived in and fought for that is just as striking (if not more so) than any number of theatricals.