Crowded, frantically busy and bustling, eating at this much-loved hawker food centre is a little like pushing a diabetic into a candy store – it’s entirely possible to go into sensory overload. Rule of thumb: take your cue from the queue. For great pan-fried radish cakes, make a beeline for Jin Ji Mei Shi (stall 96); China Street Fritters (stall 64) has crisply fragrant ngohhiang; while the congee at Zhen Zhen (stall 54) is wonderful.