Chef Chan Chen Hei has finally found an appropriate setting for his huge collection of antiques. His new digs at the National Museum don’t look like a restaurant so much as a private, residential annex. There are just six tables in all, and the general rule is reservations for a minimum of four. It’s set menus only, and these change weekly – and what treats they are. At our recent lunch, bean-curd slices were sautéed with star anise, chilli and celery; a huge king prawn bathed in a luxurious broth studded with ginger, red dates and ginseng; while the famed crispy-skinned chicken – soft-fleshed with papery skin – shows a master chef who’s still very much at the top of his game. Set lunch $60, set dinner $80.