The gaudy interiors – complete with a dinky stage – have not changed in decades, and that’s the charm of the Red Star. The food, too, has not been updated so it’s all a little less refined than, say, Crystal Jade, but no one cares. Most of the regulars – over three generations – come for the weekend dim sum feast where trolleys of siew mai, braised chicken feet, char siew tarts, roast pork and century egg congee are wheeled around by loud, scowling aunties with hearts of gold. Come early on Sundays (around 10.30am), else be prepared to wait and risk the food going cold by then.

Average per head $10-$15.