From the hand-painted flowers on the golden walls to the lacquer-red ceiling panelling and glittering curtain chandeliers, the 36-year-old Shang Palace is looking great after its $4 million makeover. Best of all, chef Peter Tsang has updated 80 per cent of the menu – mainly Cantonese with a smattering of Shanghainese and Sichuan. The Peking duck is marvellous while the winter melon soup – a velvety, unctuous, pale green ambrosia streaked with translucent strips of bittergourd – is incomparable. The dim sum menu shows off the kitchen’s considerable chops with a pillow-light char siew bao, and turnip cake with the creamy texture of good pan-fried foie gras.

Read our full review of Shang Palace.

Shang Palace won Best Refurbishment in our Who is top of the Table? feature.