Thank goodness new chef Vincent Teng has jettisoned the previous try-hard menu with its twee names like Silk Stockings and Roll in the Hay. In its place, Teng has imposed the simple, modern flavours he was known for during his My Dining Room days. A cheese tartlet is exactly what it sounds like – crisp pastry filled with a creamy filling. Foie gras is simply pan-fried and delicious for that reason. A highlight is the wonderful kurobuta pork done three ways – thick logs of sausages, braised till fork-tender and breaded cutlet. Downer: inexperienced (if enthusiastic) staff. Our conversation was continually interrupted and we were called ‘Mister’ all evening.