This restaurant has closed.
Tacky interiors and gimmicky themes are more often than not precursors to a forgettable dining experience, so it was with trepidation that we stepped into Ke Zhan, the BLVD Group’s newest Chinese offering in a line of dining-bars – right in the middle of the watering- hole belt at Millenia Walk.
The old-world feel – it’s meant to replicate the atmosphere of a traditional Chinese inn – quickly kicks into overdrive with menus cleverly disguised as kung fu manuals, imported wooden furniture and earthen wine jars not out of place on the set of a martial arts film.
Yet, the mood’s spoilt by the overhead TV panels blaring Mandopop KTV songs (Jay Chou was on an endless loop during our visit), but you can numb yourself somewhat with the impressive list of sakes and Chinese wines on the menu, all added to complement Ke Zhan’s mixed bag of Sichuan and Guangdong dishes.
<p>They don’t quite nail their grilled meat skewers, though. The different meats are rubbed unevenly in a cumin spice mix that borders on being overly salty at times; you can also skip the tough and dry lamb ($4) or quail ($6.50), and get the flavourful beef ($4) instead.
Great for sharing is the jumbo-sized poached fish in mala broth ($28.80), tender pieces of fish and bean curd skin drowning in a potent spicy broth that fires up the tongue after mere sips – good news for the hardened palate, but the dish that could well inspire return visits all on its own is Ke Zhan’s specialty roast chicken ($26.80), where a whole medium- sized chook is swathed in golden brown crispy skin, and superbly succulent inside.
All in all, Ke Zhan is a great introduction to Chinese provincial food in a novel setting – without the hefty price tags. Ease up on the Mandopop folks, and we’ll be regulars. Lee Min Kok