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Chaozhou Inn

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Chaozhou Inn
published on Sep 01 2009 - 16:58

Chaozhou Inn is one of those restaurants that keeps the PR hype to a minimum. Rather than breathlessly self-adulatory press releases, it leaves the talking to the noisy tables crowded with a very nice cross-section of Singaporean society. Its location in the basement of the ever-busy Parkway Parade helps. ‘What credit crunch?’ a friend wondered aloud recently as he surveyed the clientele. A table of three generations celebrated a beaming grandfather’s birthday, young couples alternated between fractured conversations with each other and their handphones, and there was even an animated sprinkling of the pink set (an invariably reliable barometer for the quality of a kitchen).

Speaking of which, the glassed-off kitchen is both a plus and a minus. For busybodies, it’s always fun to see how food is prepped in that organised chaos of steam and hustle. More irritating, though, is wondering when chefs in this town are going to learn that a face mask is worn on the face, and not on the chin. Thankfully, the food arrives quickly to distract the attention.

The menu is a tempting mix of the familiar (braised meats and roast pork) and the fabulously esoteric (duck tongue with orange sauce, chilled jellied pig trotters, charcoalgrilled pig’s nape, and pig’s stomach fried with XO sauce). A plate of roast pork and char siew came unadorned, resplendent in their low-key combination of smoky sweetness. Duck was braised simply in a fermented bean paste and then served, thinly sliced, alongside strips of tofu scented with five-spice powder; the flavours were admirably subtle and if the plating had been smartened up, it could just as easily have been served at a Tung Lok restaurant. As it was, the dish was a perfect companion for the big urn of homey congee streaked with pomfret and ginger shreds.

Red Groupa lounging in soup: Chaozhou Inn
Red Groupa lounging in soup

A golden disc of oyster omelette was crisply charred ‘just so’ at the edges, and the thin, soft interior broke apart to reveal plump, juicy molluscs; here was a dish that just needed a bowl of white rice to make a complete meal. Equally good was a platter of red garoupa lounging in a soup that was both sour (kiam chye) and sweet (celery and carrots).

Vegetarians also get a look in with treats that extend beyond the usual half-hearted sautéed vegetables so often seen at other omnivorous restaurants. Paired with the pale-hued vegetarian fried rice, the opulently named Four Treasures was a fragrant blend of gingko nuts, assorted mushrooms, and the tart hit of kiam chye.

In the very best of Chinese traditions, Chaozhou Inn is a place where you can sit down, order, gossip, eat and be out of the door in an hour. The setting is cosy, the prices relatively friendly, the staff knowledgeable (if a little harried) and, judging by the rapid turnover of customers, it’s a bona fide crowd-pleaser.

Words by:

Daven Wu

Chaozhou Inn details

Address
#B1-84D Parkway Parade
80 Marine Parade Road

Transport
Nearby Stations: Take a taxi.

Telephone 6346 6617

Main courses from $10.00 to $22.00

Open Daily 11am-9.30pm.


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Distances are estimatives, and are calculated as a straight line between the two venues. Current walk or drive distance may vary.
Distances are estimatives, and are calculated as a straight line between the two venues. Current walk or drive distance may vary.
 

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