Everything about Ka Soh – Cantonese for
mother-in-law – shrieks 1950s. But the daily crowds don’t come to this Chinatown eatery for the décor. The bustling, motherly staff
dish out stern love and terrifically homey
Canto-classics in equal measure. Bestsellers
include deep-fried chicken marinated in
prawn paste, deep-fried cubes of salted tofu
and a milky, fish-head beehoon noodle soup.