Fifty-Three

More than three weeks after eating at Fifty-Three, I can still feel remnants of a couple of stand-out dishes dancing on top of my tastebuds – and I can assure you this is no way due to any leftover food between my teeth. It’s the sign of a memorable meal. Located in a renovated shophouse on Armenian Street and near the Peranakan Museum, Fifty-Three is split over two levels. Downstairs you’ll find the kitchen and a private dining room, while upstairs is the main dining area. With just five tables spread across the starkly decorated upstairs floor, and an exorbitant $198 per head sevencourse meal (there’s no à la carte menu), Fifty-Three is cementing itself firmly in the top tier of Singapore’s restaurants. If you’re unable to part with that kind of cash, there is a three-course $48 or $78 option for lunch. However, if you’ve got money to burn and an adventurous palate, then you should go for dinner.

From the first dish served from the seasonal seven-course menu, it’s clear that Michael Han is an inventive and innovative chef. The use of ‘molecular gastronomy’ in his cooking is superb. While many fine-diners are still doubtful of this culinary trend, I can assure you that in Han’s kitchen these cooking techniques aren’t just for show. In fact, they enable him to deliver food that’s bursting with originality and flavour – so bring it on, I say.

On serving, our waiter morphs into an encyclopedia-cum-food-scientist of sorts right in front of our eyes, and an in-depth description is given for each dish. The pre-starter of a crispy chicken skin ‘chip’ with oyster emulsion is a perfect example. Sounds crazy? Sure. But the taste? It’s not of this world. It reminds me of Willy Wonka squeezing a three-course meal into a tiny piece of bubblegum. The crunch of the chip combined with the strong, deep flavours of roast chicken is simply divine. Another amuse-bouche of Iberian ham sandwiched between two slivers of fried bread will surely see you beg for more, but you should remain content at this point and remember there are still five dishes to go. Another nifty ‘complimentary’ offering is the bread basket. Shaped like muffins, the bread rolls are served in a small potato sack complete with heated beads to keep the bread warm throughout the meal. Tasty, smart, but above all, practical.

Fifty-Three's private dining room

Immediately following the prestarters, we tuck into the first course; Japanese tomatoes and horseradish in basil water with parsley oil. It’s almost impossible to describe this dish in words, so I’ll just say it was gold. The combination is superb; a punchy zest complemented perfectly by the soft and delicate textures. Next up is panseared lobster served alongside apples covered in thin wafers and sprinkled with chopped pieces of duck tongue. Again, an inventive convergence of flavour and texture, with a mix of sweet and salty.

Moving on to bolder flavours, the next dish consists of potatoes served with what looks like dirt and is described as coffee and parmesan ‘soil’. Served on a large hot stone, the potatoes are the stars – an interesting win for them because protein is usually king. The ‘soil’ adds an earthy depth to the dish, perfectly setting up my taste buds for the next course: Wagyu and sansho onions with fiddlehead ferns. Go now and look up ‘melt-in-your-mouth’ in the dictionary and you’ll find a picture of this dish. The slices of meat are unbelievably tender and my only complaint is that this one ends all too soon. Before we know it, we’re on to dessert.

A chocolate mousse with a sprinkling of Jerusalem artichoke shavings on top and a mango sorbet side is a standout, as is a chocolate cake with what tastes and feels like bubblegum popping in every mouthful. For one last culinary adventure before we sign the enormous bill, we’re presented with a gin and tonic ‘sweet’ that looks more like a flattened gummy bear, but when held on the tongue for a minute or so, dissolves into a G&T. How’s that for an after-dinner drink with a twist?

Costs: lunch $48-$78, dinner $198