Former Garage chef de cuisine Tim Ross-Watson’s new base is a hard-to-spot shophouse with a matte-black entrance at the edge of Chinatown. Inside, it’s a monochrome restaurant on the ground floor and a vibrant Mister Batlow art-framed bar on the third. The French-trained British chef-owner has, curiously, forayed into progressive culinary forms. As complicated as the dishes may seem, no one dish, texture or flavour stands out. It is telling that the meats are prepared sous vide across the board. Sadly, this garden’s still very much a sandbox.