Chef Jean-Charles Dubois makes the most of the awkwardly narrow dining room, uncomfortable banquette seats and even tinier kitchen. The menu is, like the space, small, but the dishes are executed with Gallic finesse. Try the dainty vol au vent, encasing fragrant sweetbreads, for example. Or the high, clear notes of a consommé, or the delicately wrought lamb chops seared with rosemary. Sometimes, though, this finesse is carried to extremes, as with the cod bouillabaisse; while perfectly flavoured and crisp, this main course was so small, the $35 price tag was a recessionary slap in the face.
Main courses $35-$45. Five-course dégustation menu $88++.