The sweet and slightly sticky red char siu is what most queue for, but we were more impressed by the thin, translucent yellow noodles. Cooked so evenly that the springy strands separated out beautifully, the noodles sat on the plate simply in a tablespoon of broth that turned pink from the combination of chilli and generous slices of roast pork. Almost completely fat-free, the meat was a little dry, but its nectar-like marinade was worth the wait. On the side was a small bowl of the sweet, fresh broth with two soft, tiny salty dumplings. Celine Asril
INTERVIEW WITH THE HAWKER: Lee Meng Joo, 51
Mr Lee and his wife used to sell raw chickens, but the ongoing avian flu crisis caused them to switch profession. A customer suggested selling wanton noodles.
What is the secret to the iight, refreshing tasty noodles?
I dip them into stock after they’ve been cooked– that’s the only base I use for my noodles. I’m one of the few left in Singapore who makes ‘stock wanton mee’.
So the noodles soak up the stock?
Yes. Make sure you wait for three to four minutes before you start eating – that’s when the noodles have soaked up enough essence.
Just enough time for me to walk to my table and order a quick drink.
What about your famous roast char siu?
We make ‘premium’ char siu. It’s a high grade of roast pork. It is from an old recipe which has now become a rarity in Singapore char siu hawker circles. I doubt you can find it anywhere else.
Like this? Try these...
• Bai Lin Zha Wanton Mee House, #01-53 Sunshine Plaza, 91 Bencoolen St
• Fei Fei Wanton Mee, 62 Joo Chiat Place, Sin Wah Coffeeshop (6345 7515)
This story first appeared in 'Step up to the plate' (TOS Apr 2010)