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Superfamous

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published on Aug 07 2007 - 22:02

Aussie influence in CBD

Lined with timber decking, Travertine marble and day-bed seating along the edges, Superfamous almost seems like a chic Sydney bolthole. This is especially the case in the evenings when, with the twinkling lights of the Raffles Place skyscrapers serving as a backdrop, the canopied alfresco space turns into a bar and serves up tipples like $10 champagne and martinis.

The kitchen is helmed by Derek Ang, who used to work at Aussie chef Steve Hansen’s River Café and Broth. The compact menu shows clear signs of Hansen’s influences, especially in the way the salads and pastas are presented, though it’s clear, after a couple of visits, that some finessing is still needed.

The Caesar salad was not a good start to the meal: segments of overcooked hard-boiled eggs sat on top of leaves drenched with too much of a bland dressing, no trace of garlic, the whole sorry affair strewn with a sodden clump of tasteless crab meat. The wild mushroom soup was an earthy, pungent broth, but there was no hint of the truffle oil described on the menu. The wagyu burger (overdone and dense) and accompanying potato wedges were both incredibly salty. The tagliatelle was overcooked and, though the menu promised porcini, I couldn’t taste them: only ordinary field mushrooms seemed to have been used.

To say the least, the starters and mains were a disappointment, especially since an earlier visit had yielded a crisp puff pastry stuffed with béchamel sauced chicken, mushrooms and leek and a velvety, creamy lobster bisque in which floated a silky ravioli. Though even at that first lunch, there’d been an aglio olio that needed a lot more salt, a bigger hit of garlic and vigilance with the overcooked pasta.

Ang is on much surer footing with his desserts. His lusciously sweet, sticky date pudding, slathered with butterscotch sauce and an oval dollop of fig-and-honey ice cream clearly owes much to his former employer, while the tarte tatin was furrowed with huge slices of caramelised pear, instead of the traditional apples, on a pile of flaky filo. This was a pity because as memorable as they were, they only served as reminders of how uneven the rest of the meal was.

Average main course $18.

Words by:

Daven Wu

Superfamous details

Address
67 Chulia Street

Transport

Telephone 6223 0038

Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-midnight.

Superfamous website


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Distances are estimatives, and are calculated as a straight line between the two venues. Current walk or drive distance may vary.
Distances are estimatives, and are calculated as a straight line between the two venues. Current walk or drive distance may vary.
 

Readers' comments

  • Paul said: “Date the review”

    Date the review! I have no idea how dated/obsolete these comments are.

    Posted on Tue 02 Jun 2009 23:08:49

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