Da Valentino's

Deep in the suburbs, Valentino’s is a family-run trattoria where the squid-ink pasta, golden carbonara and paper-thin slices of pork loin braised in a stock of white wine, garlic and bay leaves are served up with brio. The Milan-born chef spent many years cooking in Tuscany and something of the Tuscan penchant for food with sunny colours, dense with flavours and simply prepared vegetables obviously wore off. That said, the dessert trolley, while looking temptingly luscious, is usually a let-down.