Thesedays,
itseemseveryoneisfeelingrathermoistaboutthehotchefdujour,
AndreChiang.ButIdaresaynoteventhisfêtedrestaurateurcouldboasttherecentspectacleofalunchtimediningroommadeupentirelyofthirtysomethingwomen–everyoneacloneofJapan’sPrincessMasakowithcarefullystyledhair,
flawlessmake-up,
pastel-colouredcardigan,
stringofpearlsandperfecttablemanners.
ThevenuewastheinnocentlynamedEnotecaL’Operetta,
awhite-on-whiteItalianrestaurantontheedgeofBoatQuaywherethewallsarelinedwithWarholesqueprintsofTheBeatles,
prettypilesoffakerosesand,
bizarrely,
arowofdeathmasks.Howdoesthefoodstackup,
youask?Ratherjudiciously,
asitturnsout.
The33-year-oldSeitaNakaharaparlayshis11years’experienceofcookingItalianfare(seveninFlorence,
SicilyandTurin;fourinTokyo)intoawell-executedmenuthatcombinesdistinctiveItalianingredientswithrefinedJapanesesensibilities.Thelatterneveroverwhelmstheformer,
butthecombinationofthetwo–especiallyinthedaintydesserts–isdelightful.
Indeed,
therepertoireofcomfortingclassics–includingacomprehensiveselectionofthin-crustedpizzas–throwsupfewsurprises.Butit’salldonewithsuchrestraintandreverenceforgoodproduceyoucan’thelpbutcomeawaywithadmiration.Therealartistrybeganwithanecklaceoffinelyslicedbeeftonguespeckledwithcapersandawasabidressing.ThelidofaredStaubpotliftedtorevealfatdiscsofsearedHokkaidoscallopswhosejuicysweetnesswasnicelyfoiledbytherichswirlofbutter.Housemadecappelliniweretangledinalighttomatosaucelacedwithprawnsandatouchofchilliheat.
Everythingisprettilyservedonlargeplatesandbowls,
soitwillcomeasabitofashocklatertorealisethatyou’djustpaid$38forwhatlookedandfeltlikeastarterportionofspaghettitoppedwithbottargaandtinynuggetsofbroccoli.Taste-wisehowever,
itwastextbookperfect–thebrininessoftheroematchedtheundertowoflemon,
butattheseprices,
youareleftwonderingifeveryoneinthediningroomisonanexpenseaccount.DavenWu
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