It didn’t take long for news to get out that Patrick Tan had left Shiro, but judging by the quality of a recent lunch at his new digs, he’s not lost his touch. If the budget allows, deliver yourself into Tan’s hands. Depending on the season, he might send out impeccably cut sashimi, Japanese oysters, radish steeped in stock and then inserted between strips of seared beef that fairly melt on the tongue, layers of deep-fried bamboo shoots, and jelly infused with plum wine. And unlike Shiro, Chiharu is defiantly child-friendly.

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