The austere interiors are a perfect backdrop for Shinryoku’s speciality: luscious yakitori sticks. The flavours of seafood and vegetables unfold beneath smoky top notes; try prawns wrapped in bacon and shiso leaves, and cubes of pork laced with sweet garlic. But the simplest skewers, like the earthy, meaty mushrooms, are the most memorable. The set lunches are particularly good value, especially the $10 tendon – a huge bowl of rice topped with dark gold tempura prawns, fish and vegetables. Set lunch $10-$25, yakitori $4-$10.