Those of you not endowed with the ‘do-it-yourself attitude’ required for traditional Korean barbecue cooked at the table may find solace here. Yayeon’s menu follows the Japanese izakaya tradition of serving side dishes, ideally enjoyed alongside a cup of soju. The well-executed pan-fried pancake made with seafood and leeks is crisp in places and pleasantly doughy in others; and the traditional Korean fried chicken shines in a deliciously sweet soy-sauce glaze, sprinkled with sesame seeds. Requiring a bigger appetite – and perhaps best suited to those not looking to get smashed – the bulgogi jeongol (a hotpot stew with beef and vegetables) is filling, its broth rich with garlic, soy bean and red-pepper paste. The lack of barbecue smoke in the air will prevent unnecessary dry cleaning.