Reporting on this green sanctuary might mean our weekend brunches here will soon become a crowded affair (incidentally, they’ve got a surprisingly healthy kids’ selection as well). But hidden gems are meant to be shared – at least that’s the TOS creed. At the entrance of this entirely open-air space, daybeds face World War II storage tunnels; separated by a wall of wines, the dining area at the back is propped up on stilts so it overlooks the lush trees and plants of the nature reserve (in case you’re wondering, its name was inspired by the location). It doesn’t hurt that the wood panelling and wicker furniture are sourced from second-hand suppliers too. The menu has more of a big-city feel: chew on 250g of tender-grilled Wagyu ribeye and a luscious, Roman-style spaghetti alla carbonara (no cream; just egg yolks, pancetta and Pecorino cheese).
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