The best seats in the house are by the balcony overlooking the horses’ paddock and training circle. The small menu is imaginative and executed with such panache you have to wonder how long it will be before the chef is poached. Thick, gooey buffalo wings and a firm round of Portobello topped with blue cheese set the stage for the best fish and chips in town. The chocolate cake is blanketed in a velvet chocolate sauce, while the deconstructed strawberry shortcake hums with cream so light it’s practically foam. Everything here shows up the inferiority of the neighbouring Mimolette.