Baba King Nonya Deli serves up formulaic but utterly delicious Peranakan fare that gives the likes of Guan Hoe Soon and Blue Ginger a run for their money. The ayam buah keluak (chicken with Indonesian black nut) arrived drenched in an intense dark and savoury gravy; the chap chye (mixed vegetables) was a veggie delight, chock-a-block with black fungus, sliced carrots, cabbage and bean-curd skin in an addictively fragrant broth; and the fish otak, a petite square of dory fillet smothered in a spice-packed paste of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf and laksa leaf paste, was quite simply the best otak we’ve had.
But that’s not all. Baba King also serves up a mean beef devil’s curry – a Eurasian curry dish of beef slowly stewed in a dense, fragrant paste of mustard seeds, vinegar, shallots and chillis – alongside inventive fusion dishes like spaghetti with buah keluak, beef devil’s curry and sambal fish. Desserts such as the pulut hitam (black glutinous rice) and bubur terigu (white wheat porridge) were good, but part of an unexciting selection. Nonetheless, Baba King Nonya Deli is going down in my books as one of Singapore’s most detour-worthy Peranakan dining options. Eve C