It’s difficult to remember a time before Dempsey Hill became a byword for gastrofab. This moodily lit, high-raftered space has been used to dramatic effect with giant birdcage lamps, a shimmering curtain of glass, soaring filigreed screens, and tall, wing-backed sofas crowded with pillows in Khun Jim’s fabled silks. The tom ka ghai combines the sweetness of coconut with mellow, perfectly cooked chicken strips. The mussaman curry is served with small cubes of beef and potato steeped in a creamy, burgundy sauce of cinnamon, galangal and cardamom. The green chicken curry is warmed by mellow notes of lemongrass, and it is difficult not to inhale the fried kway teow that’s stained black with soy sauce. Dessert should definitely not be skipped, an incomparable tab tim grob – the diced water chestnuts, stained a lipstick red, swimming in a light coconut bath with yellow flashes of jackfruit – and a perfectly judged mound of warm sticky rice to accompany the mango pieces create a grand finale.