The once-staid menu has been given a sexy makeover, and the vegetarian fare remains every bit as good. After a while, it barely registers that there is no meat – especially when there’s the usual spread of faux meats. The regular crowd of elderly folk, couples and young families enjoy extraordinary soups, especially the wild mushrooms served in a young coconut, and a thick morass of spinach and seaweed. The fragrantly fried brown rice with olives surpasses expectations while the modest- looking crumbed button mushrooms, wrapped with shiso leaves, are pure heaven.

Ling Zhi was included in our Living on the Veg feature.