What started out in 1969 as a protest against police raids on gay and lesbian bars in the Stonewall, New York, has evolved into one of the world’s biggest annual night parades. Nine years later, on 24 June 1978, some 1,000 people marked International Gay Solidarity Day by marching down Oxford Street, Sydney, to commemorate the Stonewall Riots. (Ironically, Sydney police revoked the march permit and arrested some of the participants for rioting.) Charges were subsequently dropped, and a march was organised again the following year, with a new name – Mardi Gras. Recent parades have been attended by more than 600,000 people. Over the years the event has progressed into an all-embracing three-week celebration with art, music, film and sports activities – not just for the queer. 

Highlights include Fair Day (a daytime carnival held at Victoria Park, featuring anything from beauty contests to dog drag shows), the Film Festival (a diverse showcase of local and international works) and the colourful Mardi Gras Parade. On the last day, thousands of performers take to the streets. Satirical floats like the Brokeback Mormons and the infamous Dykes on Bikes are popular draws of the three-hour show, which leads up to a final Mardi Gras rave, attended by 20,000 revellers who party till early in the morning. Keep a lookout for groups of Christians rallying among the crowd – led by Reverend Fred Nile, who prays for rain every year on the day of the Mardi Gras Parade. 

What to see: Everyone knows the usual tourist spots – Sydney Opera House, the Harbour Bridge, the Rocks area, Circular Quay et al. If you’re looking for something less conventional, head to Hawkesbury River and enjoy Sydney’s natural beauty. Considered the Whitsundays of New South Wales (think sandy beaches, blue waters, historic villages), catch the L90 bus from Wynyard Station (sit on the right-hand side of the bus for the best views) and alight at Palm Beach. Another way is to cruise down the Hawkesbury (AU$18/S$23 for a 30-minute ride); go to www.palmbeachferry.com.au for full schedule information. 
Where to drink & eat: The genteel suburb of Balmain is a good place to spend the evening. Once an industrial suburb, it is now home to many writers and artists, and considered by some to be Sydney’s arts central. Soak up the café-society vibe at one of the many pubs and coffee shops as you do a little spot of people-watching. The Cat & Fiddle pub (456 Darling St, www.thecatandfiddle.net) and the bar at Unity Hall (292 Darling St, www.unityhallhotel.com.au) are established jazz venues worth checking out, and The London Hotel (234 Darling St, www.londonhotel.com.au) is a favourite with the locals. 
Where to stay: Simpsons Hotel of Potts Point is located within walking distance of Sydney’s touristy area. Built in 1892, the heritage mansionhotel boasts classic Victorian architecture, homey furnishings and personalised service. And because it is located round the corner from Fratelli Paradiso (12 Challis Ave, +61 2 9357 1744) and Lotus (22 Challis Ave, +61 2 9326 9000), you’ll have the chance to sample some of Sydney’s best dining establishments. From AU$175 (S$228) per room. 8 Challis Ave, Potts Point, Sydney, Australia (+61 2 9356 2199, www.simpsonshotel.com). 

Mardi Gras 2008: 9 Feb-1 Mar. Sydney, Australia (+61 2 9568 8600, www.mardigras.org.au). Mardi Gras Parade: 1 Mar; begins at the Hyde Park end of Oxford Street.

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