Budget love hotels in Tokyo

The average size of an apartment in Tokyo is 600 square feet. The latest population census showed that one in nine Japanese households is made up of a three-generation family. Unfolding a futon onto tatami mats and fitting it with sheets can take up to seven minutes. Each statistic contributes to the obstacles horny couples, young and old, face when looking to get it on in the Land of the Rising Sun. These are also some of the factors that have led to the creation of a unique contributor to the hospitality industry: the love hotel.

Neither an escape from pestering parents nor an aversion to sleeping on the floor led my husband and me to explore Tokyo’s kitschy, more salubrious answer to Singapore’s Hotel 81 chain. Rather, we were eager to indulge in all that this city had to offer without completely blowing our budget; the challenge of uncovering a world largely closed to foreigners was also extremely appealing.

Budget love shacks in Tokyo 

On our first day, safeguarding our backpacks in a locker at Shibuya station in eastern Tokyo for JPY600 (S$9) per day made the fact that we wouldn’t be able to check into a hotel until 10pm less of a burden. The plan was to spend the next three nights sleeping in rooms located on the nearby Love Hotel Hill – exact locations were yet to be determined (getting to Love Hotel Hill). The pricing for this accommodation is divided into two categories: ‘rest’ or ‘stay’. The rooms need to be vacated during the day in order to make space for those interested in checking in for their afternoon ‘rest’. Admittedly, there was something alluring about not knowing where we were going to shack up for the night.

NIGHT #1: Hotel 03

Hotel 03

Giant bright pink flamingos and a take on Cinderella’s castle caught my attention as we wandered along this narrow, winding and very Japanese version of the Las Vegas strip. On our first adventure up the Hill, we spent over an hour browsing the love hotel lobbies. We kept looking – not because we were having trouble finding an available room, rather we were completely enthralled with all the options. But the real question was, did we want mirrors on the ceiling or a heart-shaped bed? Would we prefer a Hello Kitty showdown to a disco inferno?

It was the Titanic-themed room at Hotel 03 that finally had us sold. After selecting the ‘stay’ button on the board, a woman magically appeared from behind the discreet teller’s window to collect our JPY7,500 (S$115) fee. The combination of my limited Japanese and her non-existent English skills made for an interesting exchange, but eventually we made ourselves clear with hand gestures and a phrasebook, got our key and hopped in the elevator.

The first thing that grabbed my attention in the room was the glowing black light used to portray the underthe- sea vibe. After watching sheets being inspected on MTV’s Room Raiders, it was a relief to see no spots. The walls were lit up with a view of the ocean and a looming iceberg in the distance. As we went on to find in all of our other love dens, complimentary condom packets were offered on the pillow and an intriguing control pad was displayed near the headboard, with dozens of buttons labelled in Japanese. I fumbled around, turning on the TV instead of adjusting the air-con and switching on mood lighting while trying to scroll through the 440 radio stations. Along with multiple genres of music, you could find sounds of a pachinko parlour or a busy train station. I thought this had something to do with strange sexual fantasies, but a Japanese friend later explained that these are called ‘Alibi Stations’ that transmit 24 hours of background music so that men and women can lie to their partners regarding their whereabouts. In addition to beers for JPY400 (S$6) – can’t imagine the Park Hyatt swinging that kind of deal – the minibar is also stocked with a variety of sex toys just in case you’re looking for inspiration.

NIGHT #2: Hotel Beat Wave

Hotel Beat Wave

While completely satisfied with the first night’s stay, we decided to take it up a notch for round two, going over budget with an JPY11,200 (S$172) room at Hotel Beat Wave. Staff helped us with checking in, and we made it up to our room to be greeted by a large computer screen similar to an ATM. After fumbling around with the machine for ten minutes, the lobby phoned to tell us payment was to be made in the morning.

Our new pad was filled with things to do. We had two microphones for karaoke on our 42-inch flatscreen TV (there was one outside and in the bathroom as well), sea salt to be sprinkled in the outdoor jacuzzi and a room-service menu filled with photos of ramen and curry. There was also a box of plastic clingwrap which I assumed wasn’t for taking home the leftovers.

In the morning we expressed our admiration for this hotel’s sense of trust, baffled that they could allow guests to spend the night without writing down their names and with absolutely no deposit. It was when I tried to open the door, only to discover it had been electronically dead-bolted from the outside, that I realised what was going on. Payment had to be made to this machine before we would be released. After a bit of a struggle we figured out the payment process and were allowed to exit the room.

NIGHT #3: Hotel Highland

Hotel Highland

Making up for overspending the previous night, the goal for round three was to keep it low. Hotel Highland at JPY5,000 (S$77) was our best bet. Payment was surprisingly simple, involving minimal chitchat and no fancy machines. The toilet lacked the complicated buttons I’d become accustomed to in the other bathrooms (and all around Tokyo, for that matter). Plaid and zebraprint wallpaper, a statue of a ceramic bunny and a few paintings of horses made for quirky decor – The Farmer and the Dell nursery rhyme was the first thing that came to mind. Perhaps if this had been our first night’s experience, I wouldn’t have been disappointed. The TV may not have been flatscreen and the minibar was old-school, but it was much more affordable and most definitely sanitary.

Getting there

If you want to visit Love Hotel Hill for a few hours, or spend the night, go to Shibuya station on the JR Yamanote line or subway and leave through the Hachiko exit. Cross the street with the masses and head up the hillside to the left of Dogenzaka. No need to look out for a particular hotel – half the fun is picking one out for yourself. There is a trend among love hotel owners to rebrand their establishments and shed any sleazy stigma. Some have replaced the word ‘love’ with either ‘fashion’, ‘couples’ or ‘passion’ hotels. This would certainly help them attract more tourists, but it may also raise prices. In the meantime, don’t be discouraged by the occasional sex toy or strange contraption next to the bed. These hotels are perfectly clean, great value for money and a whole lot of fun.

Originally appeared as 'Lovers in Japan’ in the June 2009 issue of Time Out Singapore.