Appeared as ‘Hidden Treasures: Jakarta’ (Time Out Singapore Jul 2009)
When you’re not stuck in one of the Indonesian capital’s infamous traffic jams or making your way out of a mega-mall, Charlene Fang recommends five enticing locales that make ‘The Big Durian’ worthy of closer inspection
The world’s 12th largest city isn’t exactly known for its tourist attractions, unless you count five-star hotels, mega-malls and gigantic statues. But before you rule this megalopolis out, get a feel for its raw energy in these choice spots.
Good food is worth travelling for, and a trip up to the Penjaringan sub-district of North Jakarta is proof of that. Eat to your heart’s content at this no-frills seafood restaurant, where a plate of crab nasi goreng is cheaper than a Starbucks latte, and two prawns doused in a delicious black-pepper sauce – approximately the size of a small cat – cost less than $20. Entertainment from a guitarist and piano-playing vocalist comes free of charge.
Where: Jln Ancol Barat IV 28-29
Tel: +62 21 6924 954
The Kemang area has its fair share of trendy bars, but Tabac stands out, with its New York speakeasy vibe, lingering aroma of cigar smoke, dark leather furnishings and hidden entrance via a telephone booth. The drinks here don’t come cheap (mojitos cost about IDR90,000/$12.50), but they sure are potent. A godsend for late-drinking types, supper is served till 2am and the front bar opens for breakfast, should a strong cup of coffee be required to keep a hangover at bay. Best of all (unless you’re into that sort of thing) is that very few ladies of the night hang out here.
Where: 20A Jln Taman Kemang
Tel: +62 21 718 2284

The women in Jakarta like to look their best, which is why any spa that sees the copious patronage of Ibu (Bahasa Indonesia for ‘mother’) clearly cuts the mustard. Secret Spa really hits the spot with its spacious salon area – the crème bath hair treatment is pure bliss – cosy rooms and no-nonsense, knot-eliminating massage. Tip: request to have your hair blown straight, not big.
Where: Benda St 14, Cilandak Timur Village, Pasar Minggu, South Jakarta
Tel: +62 21 7808 136
Built in the 17th century, the picturesque old harbour is one of Jakarta’s true hidden gems. Stroll along the harbourfront and soak in the peaceful surroundings as you gape in awe at the colourful, perfectly maintained sailing vessels, observe the men who help ferry raw materials to and from Sumatra, Sulawesi or Kalimantan – a 30-hour journey by express boat – and chuckle at the inadvertently comical signs (‘Entertain men’, ‘Phisini Café’). You could almost forget you’re right in the heart of one of Asia’s biggest, busiest cities.
Where: Jln Maritim Raya, Jakarta Utara
Tel:+62 21 691 9101
Everyone knows this is the place to pick up curios and pre-loved bits and pieces. What few realise is that the 500m-long stretch is also home to a handful of vintage fashion shops. Slip into unit 51 and browse through its collection, and don’t be surprised to unearth well-maintained vintage LV bags and Dunhill suitcases. Keep in mind that market rules apply here, so avoid the so-cheap-it-must-be-fake items.
Where: Unit 51, Jln Surabaya Market, Menteng.
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