Kuala Lumpur has plenty to offer, but can you see it all in 24 hours? TOS challenges Jill Sara to hit the clubs, play tourist and go sleepless in Malaysia’s biggest city 

7pm Keeping in mind that this weekend getaway is really a 24-hour whirlwind trip, I decided to treat myself to a seat on luxury bus service Odyssey (#01-09, Copthorne Orchid Hotel, 214 Dunearn Rd; 1800 ODYSSEY, www.odysseynow.com.sg). At RM180 (S$79) for a return trip, the experience feels like I’m flying business class. Sinking into my pre-selected leather recliner window seat, I tuck into the complimentary packet of fried rice as I switch on my personal television screen to check what Hollywood blockbusters or Chinese dramas are being screened. 

Midnight Arrive in KL. I head straight to 7atenin9 (The Ascott Kuala Lumpur, 9 Jalan Pinang; +603 2161 7789, www.sevenatenine.com) and order one of their special cocktails for RM25-RM30 (S$11-S$13) – a refreshing concoction of 42Below Feijoa vodka spiked with soda and garnished with a cucumber. Fast becoming the coolest spot in town, this swanky joint is patronised by the who’s who of the fashion industry and high society, all chilling to DJ William’s house tunes spinning in the background. 

2am I tire of watching the antics of the beautiful set and navigate my way to nearby Zouk (113 Jalan Ampang; +603 2171 1997, www.zoukclub.com.my). I pay the RM35-RM45 (S$15-S$19) cover charge and head directly to Velvet Underground, where Da Junkie Funkie and DJ Shazz are manning the decks. It’s too packed to dance so I push my way to the bar and order up a few lychee martinis at RM15 (S$7) each and bop to my own beat. 

3.30am Feeling restless, I head to KL’s ultimate clubbing spot – Asian Heritage Row (www.asianheritagerow.com) and make tracks to Heritage Mansion (18-26 Jalan Kemunting; +603 2698 8282, www.asianheritagerow.com/heritagemansion.asp). I spy local model-actress Deana Yusof in the crowd and, predictably, several models posing at the bar with glasses of Skyy vodka at RM23.80 (S$10) a pop. This is where the action is. It might have something to do with the fact that the fairer sex get in for free. Men, however, have to fork out the RM50 (S$22) cover charge. Sometimes it’s tough to be a bloke. 

4.30am My tummy’s rumbling , the alcohol is wearing off and it’s time to refuel. I make my way to the trendy Bangsar area, forgoing the row of bars for the mamak stalls. There I tuck into a bowl of mee mamak, greasy black noodles peppered with prawns for RM3 (S$1), and finish off with a smoking-hot teh tarik that’s even cheaper. This is comfort food for the soul and the alcohol-soaked stomach. 

6.15am Burrrp…Feeling like ‘the queen of the world’, I start walking to the Petronas Twin Towers (Kuala Lumpur City Centre; +603 2051 1320, www.petronastwintowers.com.my). I’ve heard about the snaking lines that form long before the ticket counter opens at 8.30am, hence my plan to stay close by. I catch a snooze in the well-lit KLCC park, waking just in time to catch the sunrise. 

8am I pass the time admiring the architectural complexity of this 88- storey landmark. Before long, I’m waved through – entry to the Towers is free – and go directly to the connecting Skybridge on the 41st and 42nd floors. Gazing out, the early-morning view is impressive but the busy landscape is infinitely more spectacular at dusk. Not satisfied, I head to the Menara Telecommunications Tower (Jalan Punchak, off Jalan P Ramlee; +603 2020 5455, www.menarakl.com.my). Perched on Bukit Nanas hill, I drink in an even wider view of KL’s cityscape – one that includes the Petronas Towers – from the observation tower, picking out key landmarks with the help of an audio tour. This alone is worth the RM15 (S$7) ticket. 

9.45am It was time to stuff my face again. My first choice was Nasi Kandar Pelita (149 Jalan Ampang; +603 2162 5532, www.pelita.com.my), a 24-hour, air-conditioned restaurant. I chow down on its famous nasi kandar (translated literally as ‘rice and balance’), topping off my base of plain rice with chewy sambal squid (RM4, or S$1.75 per serving), honey chicken (RM3,or S$1.30 per piece) and lipsmacking jumbo prawns (RM5, or S$2.20 per prawn). It’s a heavy-duty breakfast, but I feel that I’ve earned it. After all, I have been up for more than 12 hours and its starting to take its toll. 

10.45am I’m homeless, have hardly slept, eaten way too much and am starting to smell rather ripe. While I’m tempted to doze off under a tree (again), I decide to visit the Batu Caves Sri Subramaniam Temple Selayang (50480 Jalan Perdana; +603 6089 6284). The Batu Caves are open daily from 6am to 9pm and are another of KL’s many free-entry attractions. While getting there would take time (traffic jams and all), the 13km ride also means I can catch up on much-needed shuteye. 

1.30pm Note to self: the 300 steps leading up to the Batu Caves’ main attraction – a Hindu temple hidden in a limestone cave – is a lot harder when you haven’t slept. The climb was worth it, though; the larger-than-life deities are astounding and the chance to stand (and be photographed) next to the 42.7m tall Lord Muruga statue at the foot of the caves is definitely one for my Facebook page. 

3pm A massage is the only thing that will keep me awake now. I could have a simple foot reflexology sesssion (RM25, or S$10.90) at Bukit Bintang Street, or I could indulge and go to the Spa Village Kuala Lumpur (168 Jalan Imbi; +603 2782 9090, www.spavillage.com/kualalumpur). The fact that I can shower at the spa is the clincher. I decide to forgo the hour-long massage (RM225, or S$99) for the three-hour Chinese Peranakan treatment (RM675++, or S$296). I reason with myself that the multi-treatment session – comprising a milk nectar medication, tui na (acupressure) session, pearl-and-rice facial and mulberry leaf eye therapy – will tide me over for at least six months. 

6pm I emerge refreshed – my knotted back is fully relaxed and my previously greasy face is now radiant from all the pampering. I look down at my watch; it’s almost time for me to leave KL. I grab a taxi and head for Mount Kiara to catch my Odyssey ride back to Singapore. En route I spot a Ramly burger stand. I insist the driver pull over as I rush out to grab a special Ramly with cheese and egg (RM3.50, or S$1.50). No trip to KL is complete without a stop at this fastfood giant. 

7pm Sitting in the comfy Odyssey lounge (Lot 1E Shoplex, Mount Kiara, Jalan Kiara; 1300 888 121) I feel spoilt. Normally, I buy a one-way ticket (RM30- RM35, or S$13-S$15) at PuduRaya from one of the free-standing counters. The coaches normally leave at hourly intervals unless the minimum number of passengers is not met; then there’s a slight delay. This was one trip where I was not willing to risk that happening. Midnight I’m back. I can’t believe how much has happened since last night, but maybe next time I should spend more than just 24 hours in KL. 

Time Out Kuala Lumpur (RM4.95) hits stands 25 March. 
For more information, go to www.timeoutkl.com.