Kiteboarding in Mui Ne, Vietnam

Mui Ne on Vietnam’s south-eastern coast seems an unlikely spot for anything extreme, least of all sports. A sweet and sleepy beach destination, it’s far removed from the chaos of Ho Chi Minh City. Thus, after five hours of playing vehicular chicken on the highway out of the former Saigon, where size matters and safety not so much, I thought the most challenging part of my trip was already over.

My boyfriend Christian and I arrived fresh from a week of snowboarding in Japan, and I was more than ready for cocktails on the beach and cushy lounge chairs. But despite my pining, there would be no sunset beverages upon arrival at the quaint and lovely Cham Villas. Instead I looked on in confusion as Christian ditched our bags and raced down the beach, past scores of rotund European women in tiny bikinis, to the Storm Kiteboarding centre – fuelled no doubt by sheer male bravado of the ‘I shall conquer both wind and sea’ variety.

When I caught up with him, he was already knee-deep in kite chat with Storm’s owner, Scott, an amiable sea dog from the UK. Listening to them wax poetic about this extreme sport du jour, and feeling the force of Mui Ne’s strong and persistent onshore gusts, I knew my more leisurely idea was left blowing in the wind. The beach, still teeming with helmeted kiters untangling lines in the early evening, looked more like a landing strip for parachutes than the sandy idyll of my dreams. But we were in Vietnam’s ‘Hawaii’ (doesn’t every Asian country have one?), far away from work, young and carefree.

So despite my aversion to anything extreme, I gave in and consented to couple's lessons – on the condition that this should be considered payback for dragging Christian to watch Mamma Mia! On the first morning, while we were high on coffee and beach air, the kitesurfing edification began. Once we were hooked up to 12m-long kites – attached to strings and flying 20 to 40m above our heads – things got interesting, in that panicked, fight-or-flight sort of way. On top of flying the kite straight overhead – which is necessary to keep it from nose-diving, and prevent ourselves from getting launched into mid-air – we were expected to swim out beyond the surf, then eventually swoop the kite up and down to generate power, pop up onto the board, zip back and forth across the water a few times, then safely land the kite back on the beach. All without causing bodily harm to ourselves or fellow ocean enthusiasts. No problem.

Despite my claims to be surf-savvy and in possession of cat-like balance from years of yoga, kitesurfing proved an unsavoury challenge. I would proceed out to the water’s edge at a geriatric pace, petrified that at any moment my kite would run wild and off I’d go like a human rocket, making it just a few metres off shore before getting pummelled by waves and pulling my emergency release cord. Thus it wasn’t long before I threw in the proverbial towel and happily turned in my kite. Instead I played tourist, rented a dodgy-looking bike from a greasy-haired guy with a stubby neck and thick Slavic accent, and pedalled my way up and down the town, pretending to soak up the culture before heading back to Cham Villas and cosying up poolside with the latest Vanity Fair.

A few days later, sun-kissed and relaxed, Christian and I headed back to the real world. While Mui Ne is still coming into its own as a holiday destination – its beachfront amounts to little more than a strip of hotels and louche, neon-lit nightspots offering karaoke and ‘massage’ – its rugged beauty and refreshingly down-to-earth vibe make it a welcome alternative to the shores of Phuket or Bali.

And at some point, perhaps when an airport materialises, I’d like to check out the recently opened Princess d’Annam luxury resort and spa, nestled 40 minutes’ drive from the town in between red canyons, rapid rivers and deserted beaches. As for the kitesurfing, Christian is hooked, and has the T-shirt and certificate to prove it. But he will have to watch The Vagina Monologues, the holy grail of chick shows, before I do any more couple’s classes.

Useful information

How to get there

Jetstar operates direct flights to Ho Chi Minh City: go to www.jetstar.com for more details. From HCMC you’ll need to either arrange with your hotel in Mui Ne for a driver ($129 through Cham Villas). Alternatively, barter with a cab driver or look into cheaper options like the bus or train (under $20)

Where to stay

Rooms at Cham Villas (+84 62 374 1234, website) range from $211-$269 per night; and at The Sailing Club Resort (+84 62 384 7440, website) from $102-$190.

What to do

Kitesurfing at the IKO-certified Storm Kiteboarding centre. Hire a driver/ tour guide to help you explore the countryside; Mui Ne’s sand dunes range from gold to pure white and are a must-see, as are the Khe Ga lighthouse and surrounding pristine beaches. Trek to Ta Cu Mountain for a peek at Vietnam’s largest reclining Buddha, and the surrounding rainforest’s lush vegetation and wildlife.