Me-time in Malapascua

Desert islands have long gripped our collective imagination. Scotsman Alexander Selkirk (immortalised as Robinson Crusoe by novelist Daniel Defoe) was memorably marooned on one by himself for four years in the early 18th century. Popular literature has continually used the desert island as a setting, while movies and TV have long been infatuated with it: think Castaway, The Beach, Gilligan’s Island, Survivor and Lost. Sting even got in on the act with his 1979 Police hit, ‘Message in a Bottle’.

What attracts us to these remote idylls is that sense of isolation, of being cut off from the modern world with all its technological accoutrements. But in these days of globalisation eroding borders, where even the most basic of islands comes equipped with Wi-Fi, we must make do with the next best thing – a not-so-deserted island. And that’s exactly how I ended up on Malapascua, an isle that sits directly at the centre of the Philippines.

Measuring only 2.5km long by 1km wide, Malapascua (which inexplicably translates as ‘Bad Christmas’) sits just off the northern tip of Cebu and, since its ‘discovery’ in the early 1990s, has topped many a diver’s wishlist. It is supposedly the only place in the world where divers can regularly spot Thresher sharks, normally resident in deep water. Accessible only by boat, the main strip of sand on Malapascua is the aptly named Bounty Beach. A selection of hostels, mostly run by German expatriates, looks out onto it; there’s a scattering of villas and rooms spread further afield. As most places have their own restaurant and bar, you may be tempted to eat and drink where you’re staying. By all means indulge on the first night, but the next day make your way to Ging Ging’s (located directly behind the Cocobana resort), known for its reasonable prices, healthy portions and slow service – but hey, we’re on island time, so get used to it. All the popular Filipino dishes are here (prices range from PHP50-200/S$1.58-6.32), including the ubiquitous adobo – and if you simply must have them, banana pancakes with chocolate sauce.

Sunset in Malapascua

But you don’t go to Malapascua for the food. You go for the white sand, bright sun, gentle surf, and – if you’re anything like me – San Miguel. Oh, and the opportunity to snooze. In the evening, you’ll probably wake up to the sound of distant disco tunes. Follow your ears, and you’ll end up at one of the many beachside bars, or if that’s not your thing, then take an evening stroll along the shoreline. Don’t stray too far, mind – there is no permanent electricity supply on the island, meaning no street lights. Everything is powered by generators, which can easily be overloaded by an errant hairdryer. Beers are cheap (PHP45/S$1.42), while cocktails are even cheaper (but weak) thanks to very generous happy hours.

For entertainment during the day, stop one of the many masseuses walking along the beach, most of whom wear T-shirts bearing their names (look out for the friendly Roly and Janet, who charge PHP300/S$9.51 for one hour). For the snorkeler, regular tours are offered. The first, and most popular, involves a two-hour boat ride south to an island that really is deserted (pay PHP700/S$22 for a group boat, or PHP1,000/S$31 to travel privately). With its pristine white sands and undulating palms framed by a bold blue sky, the only disappointment is the desecrated coralreefs. While there are fish, much of the once-abundant sea life has disappeared – scared off, one imagines, by the deleterious practice of dynamite fishing. But the excellent barbecue on the beach, with freshly caught tuna and succulent chicken adobo, makes up for this lack of ocean creatures.

The second trip – and the more recommended – is a tour around Malapascua itself (PHP2,000/S$62 per boat). On this gentle jaunt, your first stop is a rocky outcrop off the island’s southern coast known as Dakit Dakit, where you’ll find great varieties of fish, snails, crabs, lobsters and, if you’re lucky, a sea snake. Next up is the wreck of a World War II Japanese landing craft, though its rusted carcass could just as easily be an abandoned Filipino fishing vessel; divers will want instead to visit the Pioneer, a 100m-long Japanese warship sunk in 1944, which sits in 50m-deep waters a further 15 minutes offshore. Watch for the brightly coloured mandarin fish that patrol the ship’s hull. Another 20-minute ride through choppy open waters takes you around the island’s east coast until you reach the Coral Garden, where you’ll see a spectacular assortment of reefs and fish – that is, as long as you’re not put off by the rocking waves.

From here it’s a short journey back to the sands of Bounty Beach, and that massage, snooze, swim or San Miguel you’ve been putting off since the morning. Bad Christmas? Seems like the perfect way to spend a holiday…

Essential Information

How to get there: Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacificair.com) flies direct from Singapore to Cebu for around S$400 return. From Mactan Cebu International Airport you can arrange transport via your hotel (price negotiable), take a taxi (PHP2,000/S$62) direct, or catch a cab (PHP110/ S$3.48) to the city’s northern bus terminal, where buses (PHP150/ S$4.75) leave hourly. If boat pickup hasn’t been arranged, the regular ferry (every half-hour) costs PHP50 (S$1.58) per person.

Where to stay: The Exotic Dive & Beach Resort (www.malapascua.net) and Hippocampus (www.hippocampus-online.com) are both sought after by divers (the former has its own fleet of boats); while Dano (+63 927 381 7894) is popular with young families and backpackers – its 20 or so huts all have beach views. Honeymooners who don’t mind roughing it a little should make a reservation at Logon Beach Resort (hem.passagen.se/waeppling/malapascua), with its stunning vistas and private beach.

Where to eat: Ging Ging’s Eatery and Flower Garden (directly behind the Cocobana resort, no phone), serves up Filipino and Western favourites. Alternatively, for upmarket Italian food try La Dolce Vita (no phone) on Logon Beach situated on the south-west coast. Or simply take your pick from any of the restaurants that line Bounty Beach; Sunsplash (www.malapascua.info) in particular is known for its German cuisine.

Where to drink: Take in the sunset at the Blue Corals beach resort’s bar (+63 926 305 0827), at the western edge of Bounty Beach (order a fruit cocktail; their beers are skunked). The Blue Water (www.malapascua.de) is a pleasant place to stop for a drink – be sure to snag one of their beachside tables.