Myanmar for the people

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon

I was wandering round the Shwedagon Pagoda and spotted this old monk having a smoke. It’s the country’s most sacred Buddhist pagoda, and a beautiful spot, but it’s also a great place to see locals from all walks of life, with some chatting and others meditating against the grand, gold-plated stupas. The monks have to abstain from meat and other indulgences, so smoking is a rare earthly pleasure.

Myintha Myo Oo Monastery and Orphanage, Yangon

This photo was taken during lunchtime at the Myintha Myo Oo Monastery and Orphanage. There’s an unspoken rule of silence, and it’s all very strict and rigid. The children have to pray for the country’s wellbeing and thank Buddha for his blessings before they can eat – usually rice and vegetables from donors

Myan Aung monastic complex, Mandalay

This young monk lives in the Myan Aung monastic complex, a serene community of monasteries in a quiet Mandalay neighbourhood. He’s playing with bows and arrows created with tree bark and cloth from the monks’ old robes. Mandalay doesn’t have the obvious attractions of Yangon, but it’s a good place to see the Burmese way of life and marvel at their dedication to Buddhism – especially at religious sites like Sagaing Hill, a bustling community of monasteries and nunneries, and the Mingun Bell, one of the largest bells in the world.

Near Pindaya Cave, Shan State

We were on the way from the Pindaya Cave, a Buddhist pilgrimage site with over 8,000 statues of Buddha, when a farmer taking a rest from her work in the field caught my eye. I love her hat and the warmth in her face.

Near Inle Lake

While trekking in a bamboo forest by Inle Lake, a thriving community that many tribes call home, we came across a villager hanging her laundry out to dry. Like most of the people in her community, she lives on the outskirts of the forest, making a living from selling souvenirs and little toys carved from bamboo. Like the monk, she’s enjoying a smoke.

ESSENTIAL INFO

What to do The classic Myanmar itinerary includes Yangon, Inle Lake and the temple city at Bagan. While Yangon still has more colonial buildings than any other South-East Asian city, many travellers complain that Mandalay now looks like a dirty, ugly Chinese satellite city. Nevertheless, it’s home to 60 per cent of the country’s Buddhist monks, and the booming trades in rubies, jade and heroin help make it an interesting place for culture and people-watching.

Getting there Jetstar is usually the cheapest airline for getting to Yangon, with return flights from $350. Internal flights aren’t cheap and, almost quaintly, are booked by directly emailing the airline. Yangon Airways, for example, fly to Heho (for Inle Lake and Pindaya Cave, US$178/S$224 one-way), Nyuang U (for Bagan, US$178/$224 one-way) and Mandalay (US$188/S$237 one-way) – email info@yangon-airways.com to book flights.

Other operators include Air Bagan (www.airbagan.com) and Air Mandalay (www.airmandalay.com). You could also join a tour, though many are dubious in terms of quality and ethics – Lonely Planet says Good News Travel (www.myanmargoodnewstravel. com) and Columbus Travels (www. travelmyanmar.com) are the best.

Getting a visa 28-day tourist visas are available at the Myanmar Embassy in Singapore for $35 (see www.mesingapore.org.sg).