Skiers of all abilities can meet their sporting needs and indulge in après-ski activities at France’s massive Méribel resort, says Maggie Davis

Gliding up the mountain in a bubble lift, I peer out as the chocolate-coloured chaletsof Méribel disappear into the valley. The vast, snowy mountains are dotted with fir trees that look like they’ve been dusted with icing sugar, and the only sound is the gentle hum of lift cables overhead. 

I emerge from the lift with the morning sun on my face. It’s on my first run down, gulping lungfuls of icy air as the wind brushes my cheeks, that I remember what skiing is all about: adrenalin, fresh air and Mother Nature. Nothing beats thethrill of the first run of the season. 

Established as a ski resort in 1938by British colonel Peter Lindsay, Méribel’s draw is its sheer size and prime location: 150km of easily accessible pistes (tracks), set in the stunning Trois Vallées area that links the chic Courchevel (favoured by Russian millionaires and the Beckhams) on oneside and Val Thorens (Europe’s highest resort) on the other. That’s a whopping 600km of skiing in the entire region, served by 189 lifts. There’s no chance of getting bored on these pistes. 

Méribel appeals to skiers of all skill levels, making it a smart option for groups of mixed abilities. It’s excellent for intermediates thanks to a squiggly network of blue and red runs, but it’s also fine for beginners because of the plentiful supply of easy greens and blues (check out the Altiport area). The expert skier isn’t neglected either, as there are lots of challenging black runs and off piste opportunities – such as skiing down from the Combe du Vallon, the valley’s highest point at 2,950m, reached by agondola from Mottaret. 

Méribel is also a fine destination for those better suited for après-ski. Le Rond Point (Rond Point, 73550, Méribel LesAllues; +33 4 7900 3751) is located atthe top of the Rhodos 1 gondola, and is a great place to finish your day, ski boots still on, with a few shots of toffee vodka and live music from 5pm to 7pm. Then there’s the infamous Dicks Tea Bar (+334 7908 6019), where you can drink and dance until 4am. With all the muscle-punishing activities, a comfortable, soothing place to stay and recuperate is essential. Méribel has several seriously expensive options, but a far better alternative is an intimate chalet. You’ll find one in the quirky village of Les Allues, a ten-minute drive to Méribel and far more chill than the town centre. The Le Lycène Bleu (LaGrange à Charlotte, Chemin de l’Octroi,Méribel Les Allues; +33 2 7624 0404) opened by Just Soh (made up of British skiers Justine Parkinson and Melanie Soh-Banwell), is a sleek, wooden chalet with wood-burning stove and impressive views of the Alps. 

Designed to offer a pampering and relaxing stay, it combines boutique-hotel looks (silk curtains, spa-like bathrooms and intricate details) with luxurious creature comforts (under-floor geothermal heating, goose-down pillows, delicious food and good wine). And there are great extras: ceramic hair straighteners in your room (a blessing for post-ski hair disasters); a selection of aromatherapy oils; Molton Brown beauty goodies; and a TV/DVD player with a generous selectionof films.

Hearty but well-considered dishes, like marshmallow-soft racks of lamb with sweet potato mash and pancakes folded in chocolate and ice cream, are served up by softly spoken chalet hosts Yvette and Kent (you’ll want to take them home with you). That said, Le Lycène stands out from other hotels and chalets I’ve stayed in for its genuinely homey feel. 

As I indulge in a therapeutic massage to soothe my aching limbs, I reflect on an exhausting but invigorating weekend. There’s fresh air in my lungs, images of slopes and blue skies in my mind, and awarm feeling below my feet. 

Getting there: KLM Royal Dutch Airlines flies to Geneva via Amsterdam. From Geneva, an airport transfer can be arranged to Chambéry, Méribel through www.meribeltaxis.com.  Flights start at S$1,540.
Stay at: Prices at Le Lycène Bleu startat S$1,643 per person for a long weekend (Thu-Sun: includes three nights, one evening meal plus daily breakfast and tea). The lodge’s private chauffeur is available (daily, 8am until 8.30pm) to take you from the slopes to the bars. All prices exclude flights, equipment hire and lift pass. 
For enquiries and reservations, ring +4420 8830 1122, email reservations@justsoh.com or visit www.justsoh.com.

You’ll love it if you...
1 Want to ski, ski, ski – it’s the biggest ski area in Europe.
2 Want to go sightseeing in thegondolas – there are 16.
3 Don’t speak a word of French (it’s a very English-centric resort – 40 percent of the visitors at last count).
4 Are a powder-hunting snowboarderor an intermediate skier.
5 Like a good pamper post-run. 

Essential information 
Lift passes from €29.50 (S$63) perday; €156 (S$334) for six days.
Ski and snowboard lessons L’Ecoledu Ski Français (+33 4 9221 9046, montgenevre.esf.net)
Hire skies from Freeride (+33 47900 5221; www.freeride.fr)
For a preview, webcam piste map andmore information, go to www.merinet.com or sg.franceguide.com.